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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.